WELL TALK: Interview with Agnieszka Servaas, founder of Play Sustain Foundation: "The second circulation is an asset today, not a shame"

One of the most important elements of the discussion about the future of sustainable development – ​​and about building a sense of community, responsibility and cooperation – is education.

Education that every choice matters, that the smallest decision can lead to further changes, and that as long as we only think about ourselves, it will be difficult for us to build a world in which the common good counts. It is true that in the thicket of opinions, changing trends and the cult of consumption, it is easy to reject responsibility or turn a blind eye to it. All the more reason we need initiatives that remind us that every purchase is made at someone's expense: the environment, people working in unjust conditions or future generations.

With this in mind, Play Sustain was created — a Polish foundation that combines care for the environment with good fun and shows that caring for the future can be enjoyable and inspiring. Instead of building a message on the fear of climate catastrophe, Play Sustain changes the narrative around sustainable development: it proves that conscious choices, upcycling or second-hand shopping are not only responsible, but also fashionable, creative and interesting. This is among other things what I managed to talk about with Agnieszka Servaas, the founder of the foundation and the initiator of the Play Sustain Designer competition, the next edition of which is approaching its finale, crowned with an upcycling fashion show and, for the first time, digital fashion.

Maria Jasek, Well.pl: The Play Sustain Foundation is actually the first Polish initiative to approach the topic of circular fashion in such a comprehensive way – on the one hand, supporting designers, and on the other, helping businesses to implement the necessary strategic changes. What is the history of the Foundation and when, as a team of people with experience in the textile sector, did you notice that the Polish market requires the creation of a platform integrating designers, entrepreneurs and institutions working for a sustainable industry?

Agnieszka Servaas, CEO of Play Sustain Foundation: We founded the Play Sustain Foundation in 2019 together with my husband and professional partner, Bertus Servaas. We established the foundation out of passion for education and the belief that it is the best investment in the young generation. Many years of professional experience and consistent creation of a business based on the circular economy allowed us to understand that the Polish fashion market needs an open and defined platform.

In the DNA of the foundation we have encoded the ecology of life, which is our foundation in each of our activities. The ecology of life is the pursuit of balance in being and acting. It is building an entire ecosystem based on the relationship between man-environment-business.

This is a need that is reflected in the numbers. Although fashion is often perceived as unnecessary, it is in fact one of the important pillars of the global economy and labor market that requires restructuring. Exactly. For example, the website www.uniformmarket.com states that in 2025 the estimated value of the global clothing market will be USD 1.84 billion, which is 1.63% of global GDP. The scale is also shown by the level of employment - out of 3.62 billion people employed worldwide, 430 million work in the fashion and textile industry. In turn, Statista Market Insights states that with a forecasted market size of USD 276.42 billion in 2025, most of the revenue will be generated in China. In response to the market challenges that we have identified, both economic, environmental and social (here we can mention gaps in supply chains, the discrepancy between ecological awareness and consumer choices or the acceptance of excess, which has quantitative and qualitative consequences), we decided that we had to act. And how? – through education. And so since 2022, since the Play Sustain Foundation defined its mission and goals, we have been building consumer awareness and sensitivity through various activities. We support the education of future competences, including circular fashion designers and people who want to create a market based on the circular economy.

Play Sustain Foundation / photo: Play Sustain Foundation archive

At the beginning of the 21st century, the secondary market, mainly in the form of second-hand shops, was approached with great skepticism – used fabrics were commonly associated with shame and few people admitted to buying second-hand clothes. Today, the narrative is completely different, because using the secondary market is an asset, as is upcycling promoted by designers. How does this transformation – the growing interest in and favor for the second-hand market – look “from the inside”? What else can, or rather should, education do?

I have been involved in the transformation of the clothing market for 25 years. There is still a lot to do in the second circulation, but in fact, the perception of used clothes has changed during this time. Both textile manufacturers and consumers see the potential. According to data published by the Statista Research Department in September 2024, in 2023 the value of the global market for used and resold clothing was estimated at USD 197 billion. On this basis, it is predicted that this value will grow rapidly in the coming years, increasing by about USD 100 billion by 2026. This is promising data if it really affects the status of new clothing production, because currently only one symbolic percent of textiles is recycled at the end. And again, education is a systemic solution.

Changing consumer attitudes can shape the responsible fashion market better than many regulations. Of course, comprehensive strategies bring the best results, which is why it is also worth investing in new technologies that reduce textile waste. As an example, I will use a proven example - in VIVE Group, in the company where I currently serve as Chairwoman of the Supervisory Board, we have been promoting the idea of ​​textile recycling in Poland and Europe for three decades. VIVE creates, among others, the VIVE TEXCELLENCE composite, used for the production of small architecture elements, and consistently strives to close the textile cycle.

The new VIVE Group project is the Dreslow boutique – the first store in Poland 100% dedicated to circular fashion. Two locations have been available since May: in Warsaw's Galeria Arkadiai and in Galeria Młociny (from May 15). Dreslow primarily offers collections by upcycling designers, as well as vintage gems and quality clothing with a history. Importantly, the boutique also plays an educational role, and the Play Sustain Foundation co-creates its concept, shaping responsible attitudes of customers. The second circulation also has an impact on the growing popularity of luxury goods: more and more people reach for top brand products from the secondary market.

Play Sustain Foundation / photo: Play Sustain Foundation archive

Up until now, the most visible element of the foundation's activities was the Play Sustain Designer competition, which ended with a gala with a show of the finalists' collections, which, by the way, awaits us in a month. A large community is gathering around Play Sustain - with what attitude do young designers approach this project?

The Designers Play Sustain competition is in fact the most recognizable undertaking of the Foundation. From the very beginning, we wanted to “start with a high C” – and for several reasons. In our opinion, upcycling fashion is the fashion of the future. If we really – and not just declaratively – want the industry to become more environmentally friendly, and for the mountains of rubbish not to obscure our world, we need initiatives that effectively return already produced clothing to circulation. Thanks to shared values, we are building a community of designers who want to use their talent and creativity for a good cause. The young creators of Designers Play Sustain are pioneers of the upcycling movement – ​​they prove that circular fashion does not mean giving up aesthetics or unifying style. On the contrary: alternative, artistic forms of processing existing clothes make fashion even more individual and unique. Although we often talk about “young designers”, the competition does not set an upper age limit, which is evident from the diversity of our finalists. They are united by a fresh perspective on fashion and the desire to change the world for the better.

What tools and support does cooperation with Play Sustain provide designers with?

We support the development of designers through trust, commitment and a dedicated educational program, which this year includes over 40 hours of workshops. Participants expand their entrepreneurial competences and develop skills related to new technologies. Some of them will create and present their own virtual collections in June. Organized meetings - such as Press Day or Boot Camp - and cooperation with competition partners open up real opportunities for participants to develop in the industry, as well as chances to win attractive financial and material prizes. It is also, or perhaps we should say - above all - building a team of experts who support the development of talents. One of such people is the director of fashion shows and large-format shows around the world - Waldek Szymkowiak, who creates the Designers Play Sustain Gala and effectively convinced us to enter the world of digital fashion.

Play Sustain Foundation / photo: Play Sustain Foundation archive

Closing the brand loop – creating a full cycle from design, through production and distribution, to use and recycling – is, in short, the circular fashion plan. At what stage are Polish brands currently in the context of implementing such models and what concepts should they follow?

Polish brands are increasingly declaring a green transformation, and many of them – especially the original ones – are now putting the customer at the centre of their attention. However, good practices require not only changes in communication, but above all a remodelling of business assumptions and a change in consumer attitudes. The manufacturer should offer a valuable, good quality product, created in an ethical way and using more local supply chains. The customer, aware of the process of creating clothing, then buys not only another item, but also a certain value and story with which they can identify. This approach promotes greater mindfulness in shopping – both because responsible fashion often costs more, and because a conscious choice becomes an act of care for something more than one's own wardrobe.

Of course, there is still some conflict – price still largely determines purchasing decisions. However, I deeply believe that educational activities such as those undertaken by the Play Sustain Foundation and by conscious fashion brands will help us finally abandon the belief that too much stuff can lead to happiness.